Heritage Farmhouse meets natural wine at the AP Broad and Wine a Darlinghurst

The team of all the purpose of oven brings “elegant RSL” vibrations and a non -booking policy in a sandstone cottage renewed in Oxford Street, serving Rissoles, steak, oysters Kilpatrick and all bread.
14.5/20
Contemporary$$
“How did the dinner at the bread and wine AP go?” I asked a friend who had just been to the new joint of Darlinghurst a couple of weeks ago. “It’s quite delicious,” he replied, “but, damn, there is a lot of bread.”
Well, yes, I thought. “Bread” AND in the name. And “ap” is stenography for the whole purpose, co-founded by a group of companions, including chef Mat Lindsay, from Ester of Chippenddale, and Baker Dougal Muffet. I would be at the competition regulator if there was something less than enough carbohydrates to feed a half marathon.
But I can see his point. The dinner menu also lists a “Petit Croque Monsieur”. Half charcoal and juicy half arrives on a base of leavening to leavening to leavening with a melted leavening with cheese that melts and relaunch broth; A formidable bread basket is supplied with naturally leavened brioche and mounted garlic butter; A fist of fist is filled with soft peas and sauce; Accumo, breadcrumbs and submissive courgettes improve, rather intensely and more spaghetti made with remaining bread.
Bread and AP wine opened in a sandstone cottage near Oxford Street at the end of January. It is the perfect site for bread and mold pastries, many of which seem to have been cooked in an ancient French farm that smells of cassoulet and drying herbs. A Fougasse loaf with dark and dramatic crust; Sourdough made with gray grain and ground grain in the house; Thick and caramelized candles; Super-Buttery Kouign-Amanns; Sticky and individual fishing galleys.
The “countryside wheels” interacts are available for domestic catering, or you may find individual segments full of mortadella and a type of pistachio pesto. It’s the breakfast roll for when you really don’t have breakfast. The usual customers of the AP offices in Surry Hills, Newtown and the CBD will know the Aleppo pepper, the Asiago cheese and the Sesame Scroll of smaller sesame
But they are the exclusive Dine-in options of Darlinghurst, sent by a cuisine led by chef Jono Fisher, which is worth repeating the new excavations. A Rassele Sandwich is made with often Japanese milk bread, soft against the crust of the courtyard cake. I have to return only to experiment with the chicken sausage, the egg muffin and cheese at its full potential, that is, with a seat in the leaf courtyard on the lower floor and a postmates of a hangover and a Cocktail of Tequila infused by Wattle, dark rum and cold beer.
Paul Guiney, the left alcohol field, put together a short and intelligent list of drinks with a lot of personality, from the fleshy four -Nier champagne to a beautiful bitter bitterness based on roots of the Iseya distillery in Japan (exceptional with a slice of figs and frangipanes). It could also have a clearer martini claim and chirlato to the freezer in Sydney; I have never met a glass with glaciers visible before.
Kilpatrick oysters are essential if they are in the special tab, each slice of bacon of each thick bivalve like a short story. Throw a salad of Cesare di Decano and you have the ideal dinner for when you are not really having dinner. Mulloway in the oven is the lightest option of large plate, the fish company (but not dry) under braised leeks and a herbal crust. The other week, there was also a Scottish fillet Wagyu from $ 125 to share.
Rissole. Steak. Bread baskets. Oysters Kilpatrick. “We are just an elegant RSL,” says Guiney, and it’s not very wrong. The paper napkins and a policy of non -reservations maintain the theme, in addition to Martini condensate puddles on the table (more undergrymen would be good). It may not aim at the level of the two -cod dining room of Ester, but in terms of a casual bistrot all day that sends the promise of its name, bread and wine nails brief.
Bass
Atmosphere: Heritage Farmhouse meets natural wine
Reference dishes: Kilpatrick oysters ($ 9 each); Bread basket ($ 15); Spaghetti with remaining bread ($ 28); Tart Fig and Frangipane ($ 16)
Drinks: Retaled list full of characters and fun, from aperit to bitter
Cost: About $ 150 for two, excluding drinks
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This review was originally published in Good weekend magazine
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